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Troubleshooting Direct Spark Ignition

Discussion in 'Residential' started by mobowhntr, Nov 3, 2010.

  1. mobowhntr

    mobowhntr New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Exeter, MO
    Came across a problem on a 3 year old Goodman Package Unit today. Every time the gas valve would open the spark would stop. Turn off the valve and the spark would work. Had a constant 14 volts feeding the valve from the board even after a hard lockout. Bad board. But how do you troubleshoot the spark ignition? How do I know if the spark is as strong as it should be? I looked in my School book and couldnt find anything covering this.
     
  2. Stephy

    Stephy Dawg

    Messages:
    9,655
    Location:
    Georgia
    Sorry I can't help.....

    But I'm all ears.:D

    Gas heat intimadates me because of my lack of knowledge......

    I'd rather fool with a frozed soild H/P....

    :headscratch:
     
  3. Spotts

    Spotts Legend in his own mind.

    Messages:
    9,935
    Location:
    down by the crick
    Could the flame sensor be shorted to ground?
     
  4. mobowhntr

    mobowhntr New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Exeter, MO
    I thought of a short. I traced the wires from the board to the valve, ignitor and flame sensor. I pulled and cleaned the flame sensor and ignitor saw no cracks in the porcelain. Would a short in the flame sensor cause a bleed of control voltage to the gas valve? Flame sensor goes directly to the board.
     
  5. mobowhntr

    mobowhntr New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Exeter, MO
    I understand. H.O. wanted me to leave it on. I told him it is dumping raw gas everytime it tries to light and what if it decided to spark enough on the third try to ignite all the excess gas? Needless to say it is still off until I get the replacement board.
     
  6. Jay 41

    Jay 41 Whole-ass

    Messages:
    141,503
    Location:
    Madiganistan
    Exhaust motor will purge excess gas between cycles, if not , you'll get a bit of a woof.:lachen:

    As far as spark being strong enough, if your gap is correct, and you have spark, it's good enough, do not hook your meter to it.

    Unless you want to buy a new meter.:D


    I've never seen one spark ½ way, it's all or nothing.:cheers:


    You still did the right thing, leave it off until the board is replaced and you verify proper operation.
     
  7. DPSwitch

    DPSwitch Forget the hearse....

    Messages:
    64,158
    Location:
    Mid-Atlantic
    I agree Jay... Ive checked them to a good ground to see how far the spark would span, some ignition systems will give a distance... on boilers in particluar... quite frankly it has been a waste of my time every time Ive done it.

    I have always thought that was a bad test anyhow.....I would think spark would be effected by humidity and other things...
     
  8. mobowhntr

    mobowhntr New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Exeter, MO
    Thank You.:cheers:
     
  9. Jay 41

    Jay 41 Whole-ass

    Messages:
    141,503
    Location:
    Madiganistan
    Anytime, ...............and don't be afraid of the "woof", facial hair does grow back.

    Trust me on this one,:lachen:
     
  10. jpb2

    jpb2 Dog Tard *

    Messages:
    47,163
    Location:
    within the bounds of reality
    Are there any safteys in series with the gas valve that could be killing it ?
     
  11. mobowhntr

    mobowhntr New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    Exeter, MO
    High Temp. and Rollout are fine. I am getting power to everything, just when the gas valve opens the spark stops. Also getting 14 volts to the gas valve all the time. I am sure the board is gone. I was just wondering if there is anyway to troubleshoot the spark part of it. And the way I understand it is it works or it dont.:D
     
  12. Mcool

    Mcool Pipe layer

    Messages:
    20,336
    Location:
    TN.
    Ive ran across some that would spark weak.Sometimes it would light,sometimes not.
     
  13. Mcool

    Mcool Pipe layer

    Messages:
    20,336
    Location:
    TN.
    And the one Im thinking about was "booming" the heat exchanger like yall was talking about.
    Like a mini explosion.
     
  14. Mcool

    Mcool Pipe layer

    Messages:
    20,336
    Location:
    TN.
    you nervous about gas im suprised
     
  15. jpb2

    jpb2 Dog Tard *

    Messages:
    47,163
    Location:
    within the bounds of reality
    I went back and re read your op. Missed the constant 14v part. As much as I preach two ears 1 mouth use accordingly. I need to read the same way:tard:
     
  16. Stephy

    Stephy Dawg

    Messages:
    9,655
    Location:
    Georgia
    Please humor me.......

    If I pull the sparker wire off a DSI.......

    Should it spark to a screw driver?

    :headscratch:
     
  17. tuna

    tuna New Member

    Messages:
    2,913
    I dont know what the problem is, but dont be shocked if it does the same thing with the new board. Sounds kinda screwy. If the new board doesnt fix it, maybe the gas valve or the wiring to it is "semi" shorted?
     
  18. Mcool

    Mcool Pipe layer

    Messages:
    20,336
    Location:
    TN.
    Yea if the screwdriver is touching the cabinet.
    carefull dc voltage hurts:boid:
     
  19. ISOTHERMAL

    ISOTHERMAL senior member

    Messages:
    33,673
    Location:
    Green Acres
    Good point.

    I'd pull the wires off the gas valve, restart the unit while having my meter leads connected the the wires that I removed from the gas valve. I might connect the wires to a new gas valve for a load just to double check.
     
  20. chucko615

    chucko615 Banned camp counselor

    Messages:
    14,455
    Location:
    Michigan

    Stephy, heat pumps scare me, I just don't work around enough of them.